Chalkalis energy multiplier replication

2012-02-19T21:54:00.000+01:00

I decided to not going any further with building on the Chalkalis replication. The smaller scale that I have tried to build does not put out the amount of torque on the shaft to convince me to go on. When the device runs and I put my fingers around the shaft and squeeze a little, the rotation slows down very easy. This is not what you aspect from all the math that says something else.

Thank you all for your comments and attention. Time to go to try something else to build.

Kind regards,

Knovos.

Generator study 7

2011-12-31T18:27:00.000+01:00

I made some room in the rotor for two magnets and glued them with 5 minute epoxy.

First experiment with this generator learned me that making two air gapes the voltage and the current increased. But, with 2600 rpm there's not coming very much power out of this set up. 2.4 volts 0.06 Amp makes 0.144 watt.

Generator study 6

2011-12-29T09:32:00.001+01:00

Not very much updates these day's. My garage is to cold this time of the year so the progress is slowing down. I wounded some 0.76 mm enameled copper wire on the metal base to get some more current. That was not very successful. I did not get a 0.6 watt light bulb to full brightness under the same conditions.

My conclusions so far:

The round magnet is not close enough to the metal. In contact with the metal should be great with some lubrication, like the designs from Steve Ward.
The air gap is to big. A smaller air gap generates more current.
The amount of copper wire should be more. Of course there is a relation to the strength of the magnet in combination with the volume of the the metal base and the rpm of the magnet.
The distance from the magnetic flux from the magnet to the copper wire through the metal base is to long. This can be solved by speeding up the rpm, but the rpm is already 2600, so that is not an option.

I don't like this design because it is to hard to make with the materials and the tools that I have in my garage. I don't want to invest in drills to make make big round holes in solid metal.

I don't give up (yet) trying to make a good Ward force device, because I still think this is a great invention. Looking at the video's of Steve there are other constructions possible, like the U form metal base.

Pulled this fan out of a microwave oven.

looks good to me to try out some different combinations.

I want to drill two holes in the red cylinder and glue 2 magnets in it. Then put it all together and see what comes out. The round cylinder is very close to the metal, with a gap 0.5mm I think. The magnets are then also close to the metal and should be produce some current. Next building more.

Generator study 5 in contact with the inventor

2011-11-29T21:32:00.001+01:00

Leon,

You need to have a round hole, the Magnet needs to fit the hole and there is much more that I can show you. The way to understand is, take one of these magnetic bases apart and you will understand the on and off. Contact causes greater magnetic flux (strength) and the more gap, less output. Many other test have been conducted over 25 years and I am sure something I take as known’s, others know nothing about. The problem starts with the “Lenz Law”. Do you see how Wardforce is isolated from the Poles? Do you see that by moving the field through a media, dissipation point changes (wave length)? Do you know about transmitters and receivers? If you think of how they work together, this is the same thing only traveling on a material, other than air. If I can help, let me know?

Steve
==============================================

Thank you very much for your effort Steve.
This video is not helping me to understand what is really going on with the magnetic field finding his way trough the metal. You are showing something that I have seen already in the other video's which is again very clear. I noticed the coil does not have to be mounted tide fit to the coil housing, but must have a straight surface.
What have to be done is build something like you have and see what RPM is the best for the least current input and max output. There is not much to explain about this device. It is a round hole in a piece of 'solid' metal with a round magnet spinning in it, thats all and a copper wired piece of metal. Research can be done on the size of the housing, the size of the magnet/strength etc...
Next step for me is to rewire my water pump metal housing with thicker wire and see what the results are.

Regards,

Leon.

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On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 19:48:33 -0600, Steve Ward wrote:

Leon,

Updated video on my site, check out the new page. www.energy-ingenuity.com/id33.html I think it will help you understand.

Steve

Generator study 4 in contact with the inventor

2011-11-23T22:29:00.001+01:00

Leon,

Get one of these small magnetic bases and take it apart, then you will see it turns the field on and off. If a shaft is on the Magnet like you show, and bearing to hold the shaft, no oil will be needed. After you get a base taken apart, it will be clear why the flux density is much greater than traditional methods. The cause for the motion demonstrated (Wardforce), depends on where the standing wave is forced to dissipate. I will put another video on my site in the next 2 days that should help you to understand, along with seeing a base taken apart, knowing how it works.

Steve

PS I have drawings showing flux travel and dissipation points for the CEMF, which generates Wardforce (forward or backward motion), on my site, click the links.

I don't understand, I don't know where to look for. What causes the on and of switch of the field if you see this generator taken apart. I wait for your additional information on your website Steve.

Generator study 3 questons for the inventor

2011-11-22T23:00:00.001+01:00

Hello Steve,
I really appreciate that you want to help thank you very much! It seems I don't understand how your device work after all. Let me explain what I think how the Wardforce device works so that you can correct me where I'm wrong.

What I think to see in your drawings and in your video's is that you use a piece of laminated metal with a round hole in it. In the hole there is a almost tide fit round diametrical magnetized magnet. Some of your devices have oil to lubricate the magnet. The magnet turns around with a plastic paddle mounted on a drill. Than you use another U shaped laminated or solid metal part which have many turns of enameled copper wire. This part is mounted tide fit to the first metal part with the magnet.

When the magnet is turning at a certain speed the magnetic field follows his way trough the metal and trough the coil to the other side of the magnet which causes an opposite force. This force eliminates the cogging. This is the end of one cycle. The magnet is very close to the laminated metal so the amount of generated electricity is very good. The magnet centers it self in the hole it is in fact floating.

My generator has no tide fit magnet against the metal. There is a distance from 2mm. There is no round hole but a metal U shape.

Question: What diameter of enameled copper wire should I use to get a good amount of current.

Kind regards,

Leon.

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On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 06:42:43 -0600, Steve Ward wrote:

Leon,

If you have questions, it will save you time if you ask. I can tell you why this other motor will not work on test 2. The motor turns the Magnet on and off, on the inside part of the Magnet, I am turning it on and off on the outside of the Magnet. There are other factors as well, but this should help you to understand, cause and effect.

Steve Ward

Energy Ingenuity

P.O. Box 734

Shepherd, Texas 77371

www.energy-ingenuity.com

936-628-6192

Cell 281-622-6192

Generator study 2

2011-11-20T23:05:00.001+01:00

I tried to use this motor part out of a vacuum cleaner but it did not worked at all. The amount of volts came not any further than 0.5.

I took a better look at my first small Wardforce device and hooked it up to a 2600 RPM drill to see what power comes out. Only 0.76 watt so way to low power for the Chalkalis device. Have to rewire this motor part or build something new with a round magnet which is closer to the laminated metal. Did not expect to jump to another technology but I need it.

Drawing from the inventor Steve Ward

Generator study 1

2011-11-14T15:45:00.001+01:00

It seems like this device build at a 25% scale form the prototype needs more RPM to take profit from the kinetic/centrifugal/gravity forces. The generator must have a low cogging level to prevent the RPM's to slow down and stop the rotation. There are some inventions out there who have my attention for a while. Time to take a serious look at those devices, I simply need one of them to make the Chalkalis Energy Multiplier to a success. Thane Heins or Wardforce. I'm going to look at Wardforce first because it seems to be so simple. I did a test and it works very well with this pump motor part out of a dishwasher.

I mounted my electric hand drill to the magnet cylinder and notice there is no slowing down of the hand drill when I put a load on the generator or even shorting it out. I understand this effect only appears when there is a rotation with high RPM's. The Chalkalis device needs a gearing on the shaft to achieve high RPM's.
The generator above is not suitable because of the thin wiring which deliver high voltage but way to low current. Some more tests needed.

building 13

2011-11-12T22:16:00.001+01:00

I used this rubber from the wheels out of an old copier. They are very soft.

Easy to mount on the outer copper tube.

With some extra pieces under the rubber ring adjustment can be made to make the right pulse.

See how it runs on my first video HERE
There is a lot of work to do to make the system run better. I will use this motor for a while to keep on building. Later on I will use a DC motor.

building 12

2011-11-10T22:36:00.001+01:00

I made this thin board with angels on it,needed to line up the drive wheels.
Not so much progress every building but with small steps I will get there.

Next step is to make the pulse rubbers on the outer tube of the swing arm with soft rubber.

building 11

2011-11-09T22:44:00.000+01:00

The new building of the drive system. These wheels have a hard rubber surface.

As a temporary solution I'm going to use this AC wash machine pump motor. Next step is to use thin board to line up the right angels for the first and second rubber pulse. Drive system first pulse at 36 degrees. Second pulse at where the second weight is at 1 degree. Next building more.

building 10

2011-11-07T23:55:00.001+01:00

Update from Mr.Chalkalis on the drive system

   New development on the drive system by
   Mr. Chalkalis. The moment he published this is spot
   on. I am building the drive system on this moment.

I have spoiled a lot of time by building wrong things. Don't worry, the photo on the left is not what I am building. I left that path right on time. I promised myself to stay as close as possible to the original prototype from Mr. Chalkalis. I made some first steps building the drive wheels from the side of the outer tube and with the rubber pulse parts (according to the latest changes). Next building more.

building 9

2011-11-05T21:41:00.006+01:00

I want the position of the drive wheels to be adjustable. So I came up with this construction.

I placed a thin tube into the firsts bearings that I left in the bearing holder. As you can see, the tube is not centered around the shaft, but it does not touch it, so no problem. With the wooden plank around the tube I created an adjustable construction.

I used these two old electric hand drill motors and two wheels with soft rubber rings out of an old copier.

Top view motors with a small piece of wood to keep them in place. I could not find what type of motors they are but I think 6 volt DC.

These drive wheels should do the job, I thought.
I connected the two motors to my power supply and with a few adjustments I got the device running at 162 RPM with no load. The power supply took 3.5 volts 3.25 amp = 11.4 watt. That was the maximum of power that I get from these two motors. When I put a 12 volt dc generator (with gearing) on the shaft the device slowed down and finally stopped. In the end the motors became weaker and weaker. I do not recommend these motors with this experience. At this point I stranded. I need to get a stronger motor and go again :-((

building 8

2011-10-30T22:46:00.000+01:00

I saw this video AEVECTOR from a guy who is building a great Chalkalis replication. The spinning of his device told me there is something wrong with mine. I took a look at my bearings and the construction was not good at all. The rubber in between the bearing and the shaft wasn't perfectly round. I decided to use smaller bearing who fit perfectly to the shaft. The rotation of the swing part is way better now. For the smaller bearings I used the other side of the bearing holders.

No function for the big bearings anymore. It was hard to pull them out so I left them in the holders.

The rotation of the swing arms is way better, but I have still problems with the under construction. In spite of the two extra metal bars and the stone weights, the construction is not stable enough when swinging by hand. Need to make more metal bars. Next building more.

building 7

2011-10-29T22:16:00.000+02:00

I've received some lead donations from my wife to make the heavy weights. My first idea was to build the weights up in layers but as you see it is a bunch of different sizes. The only way to work with this lead staple is to melt it.

I split all the lead into 4 parts to melt 4 half disks
I used this ceramic terracotta saucer. The heat comes from down under and I used also the hand burner to melt the lead from above.

Again do this outside, melted lead can be dangerous for your health. Take your precautionary measures.

I used a terracotta saucer with no layer in it. Before I melted the lead I covered the inside of the saucer with some oil to make the lead come loose when it is cooled down.

Almost the right weight of 2525gram. I have to drill a hole in the middle and there will be some extra weight from the bolt and the rings.

The two weights mounted on the arms. When I want to turn the swing part around by hand the under construction side kicks away with brute forces. The bean construction looks good but the metal under construction is not strong enough to stand alone. I mounted the beans between my work bench and the other side of my garage. That worked just fine.The next step is to make a good construction for the driving wheels, I think this will be the hardest part.
Next building more.

building 6

2011-10-26T00:09:00.000+02:00

One tube removed. One left 505 gram.
Outer weight was to heavy for such a small device. Discussion at overunity.com

I welded the shaft to the disk.

The swing part can be rotated now and is remarkable quiet because of the rubbers in between the bearings and the shaft. It seems to be lined up very nice in the middle of the device. Another thing is the stability. Without a heavy weight for the under construction the device gets already kicks from the heavy rotation forces while there is only an outer weight of 505 gram. When I put my foot on it stabilizes almost complete. I'm already scared for the moment when the big weights come in. I want to make the center weights of thin layers of lead hold together with steel disks and bolts. Layers of lead can be added or taken of for fine tuning.

building 5

2011-10-23T22:53:00.002+02:00

This building I made the under construction for the beans.
As a basis I used this metal trestle which I both some time ago.

One bean is mounted with two bolts from the bearing holder.

I made two metal plates for both sides each with 4 bolts.

To support the second bean I mounted on each side a metal bar.
The complete construction feels rock solid but on the bottom of the trestle I will put a heavy load of stones later on. Next building more.

building 4

2011-10-22T18:31:00.002+02:00

So I made two new arms 300mm long, drilled the holes and tapped the tread for the bolts.

Drilled holes in the pipes and cut two pieces of lead for the extra weight. The total weight of this whole swing part is 1461 gram. The outer two tubes filled with lead, the 4 bolts and the extra lead strips weight 1125 gram. The new distance from the shaft is now 300mm. Swing diameter is 600mm.

The dimensions for the bearing holders.

building 3

2011-10-22T00:28:00.001+02:00

No, this is not the way to go. I decided to use copper pipe like Chalkalis did.

I used this 15mm (outer diameter) copper pipe.

Flatten the end of the pipe with a vice, to make it ready for melting the lead into the other side.

I took a strip of aluminum as a gutter to melt the lead into the pipe. I used this burner for heating up the lead.

Please be careful, melting lead is dangerous for your health. Lead damps are very toxic. All building instructions in this blog are at your own risk.

Argg! One pipe is not enough to create a weight 1125 gram so I had to make two pipes. Together they weight 1020 gram. For the remaining 105 gram I want to use two pieces of lead in between the arms and the copper pipes. The arms became to short now so I will make them over again 300mm long. I recommend to use pipe with a larger diameter. One pipe should be better and closer to the original design from Chalkalis. Next building more.

building 2

2011-10-20T00:03:00.001+02:00

I printed the design on paper (100% scale) and use it for placing the arms in the right angel and to keep an eye control on how the parts are lined up.

Arm disk in place and arm lined up for marking.

Two marks on the arms for drilling the holes.

De arms mounted on the disk

Other side of the disk.

I took a piece of massive square steel and bend it by hand on the line on the print.

At this point I want the diameter to be as the design, so I have to cut a piece of the arms to weld it on the outer metal bow.

Later on I weld the arm like this on the metal bow.

O boy, I think I'm going wrong here. The weight of the metal bow is only 193gram and it should be 1125gram. Chalkalis used a pipe filled with lead. My idea is to make two bows with a little plate at the bottom an then fill the space in between with lead as much is needed. The outer diameter will be bigger because of this construction, I don't know what the consequences are. Melting lead can be dangerous so I have to study on that first. I have to melt lead anyway for the big weights. Next building more.

building 1

2011-10-17T15:37:00.001+02:00

I decided to make a replication that is 25% from the original design. The outer diameter of the rotation part should be 560 mm with two weights each 5711 gram. I also decided to use bearings. The risk that I take with that is that the forces will be to big and the bearings will be damaged, but we will see.

The first step that I take was to saw two pine wooden beans.

The first collection of materials. I don't want to buy anything, All the materials are pulled out of old machinery.

The diameter of the bearings are 45mm. The diameter of my hole drill is 44mm. I have to fine tune the diameter of the hole which is always better to get a tide fit.

The hole must be a little wider than the diameter of the shaft. There must be no friction from the shaft with the wood.

The steel disk for the arm fixation comes out of a 4mm thick metal plate. I need a disk with a diameter of 75mm so I draw a circle which is 78mm. Again, I will fine tune that later on.

The only tool that I have to cut out the circle is a grinder.

It can be done.

I drilled a hole in the center which is a tide fit for the shaft. I will use this hole to mount the disk on my drill to fine tune the diameter to 75mm.

It took a while but there it is.

Draw two lines 30 degrees and put some points to drill holes for the bolts that I want to use.

I drilled two holes and tapped them to fit these two bolts. Each arm will be hold in place by one bolt. Then there is the possibility to adjust the arms at the right angel. If the adjustment is done I weld the arms to the disk. Next building session more.

Lets start building on a donation to the world

2011-10-17T00:23:00.000+02:00

Two weeks ago I stumbled on a blog from a man called Fotios Miltiadis Chalkalis. He donates his invention to the world. He worked many years on energy devices and finally came up with a really simple to build energy multiplier. Well thats something! Working years on a machine and then, when it is finished, give it all away, without asking for money, patents etc... People who do this are my hero's. Does people deserve at least attention, we are obligate to look at what they have done for us. There is no more time left now, we need to do something radical, we have to work hard to save the earth. The planet earth does not accept lies, profits and dirty politics anymore.

After reading his blog I looked for replications everywhere. Guess what, NOTING! I looked in the most popular forums on the web and no one wants to make a (serious) replication. There must be something wrong with his math, or a device like that won't work, etc...

Enough! Lets build that device and lets see what's goes in and and how much power is coming out. You can follow me building the device on a smaller scale by watching this blog.

Official blog: F.M. Chalkalis energy multiplier
Listen to him and look at his donation to the world:

THIS IS A OPEN SOURCE PROJECT